Supplies needed: Rubbing alcohol, mite jar, collection tub, ½ cup measure. Note: there are devices made specifically for this test. Here is one example from Let It Bee in Greenville WI.
Prepare testing jar with ½ cup rubbing alcohol
Select a frame with open and capped brood with many nurse bees – Make sure the QUEEN is NOT on the frame
Shake frame over tub to collect a ½ cup sample (about 300 bees) add to testing jar cap and shake 20 secs then 20 secs more
Once settled raise up test jar and count mites on the bottom of the jar
Advantages: accurate mite count each time, quick and easy Disadvantages: loss of approximately 300 bees, alcohol is flammable – keep away from smoker
Powdered Sugar Roll
Supplies needed: Powdered sugar, jar with screened lid (#8 hardware cloth), white collection tub or white disposable plate, ½ cup measure, spray bottle with water
Select a frame with open and capped brood with many nurse bees – Make sure the QUEEN is NOT on the frame
Shake frame over tub and collect a ½ cup sample (about 300 bees)
Add the 1/2 cup of bees to the testing jar and screw the cap on
Add powdered sugar – 2 Tablespoons
Roll the jar to cover bees in sugar and let sit in the shade for 2 FULL MINUTES – this step is VERY important
After 2 minutes, roll the jar again and then shake the jar upside down into the collection bin for 1 full minute. Mites will drop into the collection bin and the bees will stay in the jar.
Remove the jar lid and pour the bees back into the hive.
Spray the collection bin with water. The powdered sugar becomes translucent making it possible to count the mites.
Advantages: Bees are kept alive and can be returned for clean-up back in the hive. Disadvantages: This method is more time intensive than the alcohol wash and not as accurate due to variables including nectar on the frame and excessive humidity which has a tendency to clump the powdered sugar. When clumped the powered sugar does not remove as many mites.
A bee nuc (nuc is short for nucleus) is a small colony made up of bees taken from a larger colony. It’s normally sold in a box with five frames standing side by side. A couple of those frames usually already have honey stores.
A bee package is typically sold in wooden frame boxes with screens on two sides. They are sold by the pound, and it takes approximately 3,500 bees to make a pound. A three-pound package, therefore, contains about 10,000 bees.
Inside a bee package is a can full of a sugar syrup mixture. The bees feed from this during transport. Bee packages can be mailed to you via USPS. Each package also contains its own small wooden box covered on one side by a screen. This tiny box holds the queen and a few worker bees to tend her.
The Differences
Bees in a package can come from different hives. The bees in a nuc are generally from the same colony. Bee packages also tend to be less expensive than nucs. However, with a package, you’ll need to build the colony by transitioning the bees into your existing hives. This requires a greater education in beekeeping. For that reason, using nucs is typically less stressful than using packages.
Which one should you get?
Beginners would do well to begin with a 5-frame nuc rather than a 3-pound package of bees. If you are a beginner, starting with an already established colony is going to increase your success rate immediately. Beekeeping has a huge learning curve. Starting with a 3-pound package introduces a whole new set of elements that you have to learn before you start keeping bees.
Not only are you new at this but now your package bees are starting from scratch too. They have no foundation, no comb, no brood, no nectar and no pollen. And although you have a mated queen in a cage, she’s technically not laying because she has nowhere to lay yet. A nuc already comes withall of those elements.
So you’ve got your honey bee package, now what?
A few things before talking about installing your bees.
Make sure your bee yard is all set up and your equipment is ready to go.
Make sure you have prepared 1:1 sugar water.
Pick up your bees with your bee suit and gloves handy. Most likely thousands of bees will be flying around.
Install your bees on the same day as pickup, if at all possible. However, a couple day delay will not harm your bees.
Secure your bees before transport. Recommend placing a mesh bag around the bees and use duct tape to ensure the cover can’t come off during transport. In the event you had an accident you don’t want bees to be flying around in a vehicle to make matters worse.
Remove 5-6 Frames from hive box where you will be installing the new bees.
Remove the cover over the hole in the top of the cage and place it to the side.
Spray the package with sugar water.
One shake to cause the bees to fall to the bottom of the cage.
Remove the syrup can from the package and queen cage, cover opening with the cover you just removed.
Check the queen cage to make sure your queen is alive and well.
Remove the cork, cap, and/or metal cover from the end of the queen cage. Do not remove the candy.
You will find white candy separating the queen from the hole.
Poke a hole in the candy (use a paperclip or small nail). Make sure you don’t harm the queen.
Place the queen in a safe location out of the sun. We often put her in our jacket or shirt pocket if it is cool.
Place the queen cage between two middle frames at the top of the frames. We like to use a paperclip to hold the queen cage in place so she doesn’t fall to the bottom of the box. (The Candy side should up)
The bees must become acquainted with the queen before she is released (bees will eat through the candy in order to release her once she is accepted). This can take several days.
Remove cover from package.
Shake bees into the gap in brood box.
Replace the previously removed frames – Gently. The bees will move out of the way.
Place the mostly empty container in front of hive and the remaining bees will work themselves into the hive.
Feed the bees with a 1 x 1 sugar syrup.
Put on the inside cover and place the telescoping cover on top with extra weights if you use them.
Remember to come back in 2-3 days to make sure the queen is out of the cage. If she is still in the cage, release her.
If it is very cold when you get your bees you can use the No Shake Method as discussed in the video.
A bee nuc (nuc is short for nucleus) is a small colony made up of bees taken from a larger colony. It’s normally sold in a box with five frames standing side by side. A couple of those frames usually already have honey stores.
A bee package is typically sold in wooden frame boxes with screens on two sides. They are sold by the pound, and it takes approximately 3,500 bees to make a pound. A three-pound package, therefore, contains about 10,000 bees.
Inside a bee package is a can full of a sugar syrup mixture. The bees feed from this during transport. Bee packages can be mailed to you via USPS. Each package also contains its own small wooden box covered on one side by a screen. This tiny box holds the queen and a few worker bees to tend her.
The Differences
Bees in a package can come from different hives. The bees in a nuc are generally from the same colony. Bee packages also tend to be less expensive than nucs. However, with a package, you’ll need to build the colony by transitioning the bees into your existing hives. This requires a greater education in beekeeping. For that reason, using nucs is typically less stressful than using packages.
Which one should you get?
Beginners would do well to begin with a 5-frame nuc rather than a 3-pound package of bees. If you are a beginner, starting with an already established colony is going to increase your success rate immediately. Beekeeping has a huge learning curve. Starting with a 3-pound package introduces a whole new set of elements that you have to learn before you start keeping bees.
Not only are you new at this but now your package bees are starting from scratch too. They have no foundation, no comb, no brood, no nectar and no pollen. And although you have a mated queen in a cage, she’s technically not laying because she has nowhere to lay yet. A nuc already comes withall of those elements.
Remove 6 frames from your bottom deep so you have room to place the nuc frames in the deep. You removed one additional frame to provide some space to more easily slide your frames of bees into the box.
Transfer frames of bees from the nuc to the middle of your hive in the same order as in the nuc. Gently place a frame of bees in a box without rolling them against bees on another frame by putting the frame in an open space and then using your hive tool to gently push the frame next to the already in the box.
Gently place the last frames at the outside of the box.
Place the container next to the hive entrance and any remaining bees will work themselves into the hive.
Feed the bees until the bees have drawn out all the frames of foundation.
Nuc loaded with bees sitting on top of a hive.Bees installed from a nuc with the empty nuc next to it.
The Wisconsin Honey Producers Association announced that Kaelyn Sumner was selected as the 2023 Wisconsin Honey Queen at their annual convention. Kaelyn has been a member of BCBA since 2018 and many will remember her presentation of the results of a honey study while she was in high school. Kaelyn is currently a junior at Kansas State University, majoring in Agricultural Education with minors in Food Science and Entomology.
Kaelyn will spend the rest of this year promoting the beekeeping industry in Wisconsin. She is available to speak with civic groups and to appear at fairs, festivals, and farmers markets. She will also give presentations in schools about honeybees and the beekeeping industry. In January 2024, Kaelyn will represent Wisconsin at the American Honey Queen competition at the American Beekeeping Federation Convention in New Orleans, Louisiana.
Kaelyn presenting her study results to the club
Follow Queen Kaelyn’s activities on Facebook at Wisconsin Honey Queen Program. To schedule an appearance or interview with Wisconsin Honey Queen Kaelyn Sumner, contact the Wisconsin Honey Queen Chairperson, Mary Kettlewell, at 414.429.5502 or by email at wihoneyqueenprogram@gmail.com.
The Brown County Beekeepers Association is proud to have Emily Skala as a member of the club. On November 5, 2022 the Wisconsin Honey Producers Association (WHPA) recognized her contributions to beekeeping when they announced she had earned the WHPA 2022 Youth Award.
Emily started beekeeping through the WHPA Youth Scholarship program, joined BCBA in 2020 and has become an advocate for the beekeeping and honey industry. She has been an active member of the Brown County Beekeepers Association, teaching sessions at the Brown County Botanical Gardens Youth Pollinator Program, participating in television interviews about beekeeping, and promoting the WHPA and its many programs to children and adults through numerous outlets. Emily has showcased her honey in the WI State Fair honey competition the last two years, placing each year.
The Brown County Beekeepers Association wishes Emily continued success in her beekeeping journey and look forward to her future contributions educating about bees.
The Brown County Beekeepers Association has been fortunate to have Julie Mazzoleni as our Vice President for the past 6 years. On November 5, 2022 she was recognized for all of her education efforts when she was awarded the Wisconsin Honey Producers Association (WHPA) Education Award at the 2022 Fall Convention.
Julie coordinated the Green Bay Botanical Gardens Children’s Pollinator Camp, where young people spend a day learning about honeybees, including an experience in the hive. She also organized a half-day Science, Technology, Engineering and Math program at UW-Green Bay teaching children about bees and has made numerous visits to local classrooms.
Julie is also a youth mentor in the WHPA Youth Scholarship program.
The use of smoke causes to things to happen, both of which are beneficial to the beekeeper. First, the smoke masks the alarm scent bees emit to warm other bees about dangers to the hive (like a human taking the roof off their house). Without the warning bees will be less defensive. The second thing smoke does is make the bees believe there is a fire nearby and that the hive may be in danger. The response in the bees to go gorge on honey, as they may have to fly away and create a new home somewhere else. So a number of the bees are busy eating honey and less defensive.
What can be used a smoker fuel?
There are many types of fuel that can be used in your smoker. Here in Northeast Wisconsin there is an abundance of fallen pine needles which work very well. Other materials include pine cones, newspaper, cardboard, pelleted fuel, cotton waste, etc.. You can use pretty much anything that is combustible. Just don’t use anything that might be toxic-to you or your bees.
How does one light a smoker?
First, gather your materials. The smoker, an ignition source, flammable materials, hive tool, and fire extinguisher or water. Start by lighting something easy, like balled up newspaper or a used egg carton. Put it in the smoker and give it a few puffs. When it is burning well add more materials over it (pine needles, pellets, etc) and give it a few more puffs to get the material lite. Use you hive tool to gently press the materials down in the smoker. This packs the materials for a longer burn and can sterilize the hive tool if hot enough. Add more materials, pack, add more materials until full-all the while puffing away to ensure it stays lit. You are looking for a cool, white smoke and, for sure, no flames or embers flying out the nozzle which could injure your bees or start a fire.
So now, how does one use the smoker?
Start by giving a few puffs at the entrance to the hive. Remove the top cover and give a couple of puffs through the hole in the inner cover. Crack the inner cover and give a few more puffs. That should be sufficient to initially open the hive. Smoke the bees again if they are getting aggressive or the sound changes. There are times when the bees are just all wound up and no amount of smoke will calm them down. In that case, it is best to put the hive back together and come back another day
